Nuremberg

We’re staying in Old Town, which was originally surrounded by a three-mile long wall, a moat and a ring road. Walls and moat still remain.

We get up and out for an early stroll because Europe is experiencing a heat wave and we know the day will warm up fast. Our goal is the Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg). 

The Frauentor gate is one of four medieval entrances in the 90% of the wall that remains. Next to the wall is the Craftsmen’s Courtyard (Handwerkerhof). It’s an add-on that was built in 1970 to celebrate the craftspeople that still today make their living preserving the medieval traditions. The half-timbered structures replicate shops where artisans make and sell their goods. At the end of the courtyard is a bridge over the now dry moat. Standing there allows  us to gauge the width and depth of the moat and imagine how it assisted in the defense of the city.

We walk up the Konigstrasse, (the main drag aka King’s Street). During World War II 90 percent of Old Town was destroyed. Dresden was the city that sustained the most damage, Nurnberg was second.

We walk past the Clara Church and stop to locate the statue of Mary across the street on the second-story corner of a building and then admire the Old Granary.  The granary is one of an original 11 large structures where grain was stored in the attic in case of famine or sustained battle.

At this point we are in a pedestrian only area. Strolling tourists and locals alike stretch out across the broad cobbled expanse.

St Lawrence Church (Lorenzkirche) has an ornately carved façade. Inside, the Catholic icons remain, left there even after the Reformation turned it into a Lutheran place of worship.

Near the Pegnitz River is the Fountain of Seven Virtues (Tugendbrunnen). The classic virtues are displayed by symbolism., courage is a lion, hope an anchor and justice holds the scales. The fountain water flows from the female figures’ breasts.

Looking beyond the bridge railings we can see the Holy Ghost Hospital which itself  picturesquely spans the river.

We walk through Market Square where portable booths and wagons offer merchandise and admire the Frauenkirche, and the Beautiful Fountain (Schoner Brunnen) the fountain is gilded shiny gold. It was once a source of clean drinking water for the city.  Two brass rings embedded in the fence surrounding the fountain can be spun in anticipation of good luck. It’s starting to warm up considerably so we buy a cold drink and sip it while taking in the view.

The Imperial Castle is our last stop. It’s a complex of 45 buildings with surrounding grounds. We’re not up for the one-hour tour so we head back, retracing our steps to a gelato shop that beckons. Good decision. We are melting along with the ice cream.

After a break from the heat in our air-conditioned room, we take our air-conditioned car to the former Nazi Rally Grounds.

Austere, gray, and massive the compound looks like all it represents. It emanates a cold aura. The grounds, designed by Albert Speer have been allowed to deteriorate and will never be glorified. The interior is filled with storyboards, historic photos, and videos. We follow the timeline of Hitler’s rise to power and see several comparisons to what is happening in the US.

·      Ritualized rallies

·      Jailing of political opponents

·      Challenging constitutional norms

·      Concentration camps

·      Consolidation of power

·      Hatred of the other

And the chilling reminder that Hitler was elected.

Dinner is a hearty plate of Nurnbergers, a small bratwurst that Nurnberg is famous for, served with sauerkraut (me) and potato salad (Brez).  I have a tall cold beer and Brez has an iced tea. We eat outside at a tavern in the Craftsmen’s Courtyard.

We top off the evening with an icy cold Proseco and some people watching on the terrace of the Victoria Hotel.